Monday, February 8, 2010

Old Hickory House (1/10) - 5490 Chamblee Dunwoody Rd, Dunwoody, GA 30338

Yikes.  Due to the overwhelming support and high praise posted in favor of the Old Hickory House on multiple message boards covering the Atlanta barbecue scene, I made some time over the past weekend to try the restaurant's barbecue.  Although it was a little past noon, I overheard a few orders, none of which were for barbecue, and saw that most of the customers were indeed eating biscuits, gravy, eggs, and other breakfast items.

In my days since I started my attempt to tackle the nation's barbecue scene, I have yet to witness such blasphemy in a barbecue joint.  The last time I was in Austin, a group of friends and myself traveled over an hour to rural Lexington, Texas (Snow's Barbecue) to eat barbecue in the morning.  We found ourselves in good familiar company with others who knew that barbecue consumption knows no time.  So Old Hickory House was a barbecue joint, right?  The open pit behind the counter lead me to believe so.

I found the combination plate of ribs, beef, and pork + 2 sides reasonably priced... well until I surveyed my plate.  Oh where to start.... Perhaps I should just sum it all up:  dry, miserable texture, flavorless, smokeless.  This place reminded me of a Waffle House except I honestly think Waffle House could turn out better barbecue than what I was eating.  Just a look at the picture of the pork to the right turns my stomach.

Welcome to The Old Hickory House.comThe ribs were decent at best and I thought the Brunswick Stew was average compared to what I have tried across the southeast US.  I asked for a to-go box purely out of sensitivity towards my waitress's feelings but my leftovers went right into the trash.  If you find yourself in a situation where you're stuck in the Old Hickory House, follow the locals' lead and try the breakfast.  This was probably the worst barbecue meal I have tried over the past half-year.  Anything that is in a close race with Fincher's Pig Sandwich needs to reevaluate its product.  The restaurant's lack of self-awareness shocks me.  Old Hickory House would lose in a blind taste test with a boot.  Any visitors who get tricked to "Put Some South In Your Mouth" might never come back.

Old Hickory House on Urbanspoon


  1. that's not old hickory pork or even baked beans

  2. You are out of your mind. I'd kill to find BBQ pork that looked like that in south Florida. Everything here is minced beyond recognition and drowned in sauce. You're lucky to get the end cut pieces.


Ratings and Reviews

In order to provide a consistent grading standard across each restaurant/region, I order a barbecue pork sandwich (and other meats/sides if a restaurant/region specializes in another specialty). In addition to comparing the quality of food, I will also take into consideration other intangibles (ambiance, atmosphere, service, authenticity, etc.) in my ratings as I deem appropriate.

Basically, a 10/10 represents an incredible meal, while a 6/10 score indicates a decent dining experience but a substantial number of dishes fell short of great. Lower scores indicate unpleasant experiences which I would most likely not even recommend to my worst enemy (Jonas Singer).

I reserve the right to continuously edit/update previous posts and to change rating scores as I see fit.